This morning I went on an organised half-day hike to the Simien Mountains (750birr!). The scenery was even more breath taking than the journey here with wheat, barley and teff fields looking beautiful 2400m landscape. Upon arrival our guide (a 17 year old lady) met us and took us around a couple of mini mountains to see the spectacular views of the peaks. We saw about 20 baboons in the distance and later on a larger group of around 40 with babies, who were playing and moving around. She pointed out the eucalyptus tree which the local community use to make medicine and house and fire wood. Sage thyme and mint were also growing wildly along the way. As we sat on one of the many viewpoints looking out and eating our sandwiches a pair of ravens began swooping around us and plunging down the mountainsides. One caught a large rodent of some sort and looped the loop on the wind with its prey in its claws. Far off in the distance we also saw a humongous bird - the largest in Ethiopia, an eagle which picks up lambs for prey! I was with another couple, Victoria and Frank from Austria. A scout joined us on our trek to ward off children with his big gun - I'm told they don't use them, it's just scare tactics. It was so peaceful and quiet up there, I think I know why they farm and walk it despite the remoteness and lack of electricity and running water. The guide said she never gets bored trekking the same route as there is always something new to see, like the Ethiopia beehives, a large woven basket attached to an old tree which the bees use as a home and make lovely organic honey!
This afternoon I had a short rest before heading out at 2pm into the city centre and the Royal Enclosure - home to six different castles, built by six different emperors of Ethiopia when Gondar was the capital! I heard lots about which emperors the people liked from my guide Grum, which ones were selfish and one similar to Robin Hood - his castle was small! Another who took all the money to don his castle in gold-leaf and ivory inside - which of course was all looted out in the civil war! One died and left his 8 year old son in charge, who's mother helped him to reign and then his son after (5 years old an emperor) who was helped by his grandmother - an amazing woman I'm sure!
Before the enclosure I visited an immensely famous church made by the Emperor Fasil - the "Holy Trinity, Mountain of Light" in the 16th century. Very beautifully painted by one man over a four year period, it is famous for the angels ceiling, who look in every direction to assure you that wherever you go, an angel is always watching you! Also, the Virgin Mary painting has eyes which follow you around like the Mona Lisa - creepy!After the royal enclosure we visited the baths 3km out of town. We took a bajaj there and back and I found out that it was built and used by the emperor Fasil and his family to swim and rest in. It's amazing but what's more amazing is the fact that every 23rd of January, they fill it, the priests bless it and everyone swims or bathes in and around it - to represent Jesus baptism. The bath is surrounded by large trees and many beautiful birds reside there, I certainly wouldn't mind a swim in there! A lovely day but I burnt my neck! Bring on the ten hour bus journey tomorrow, 100km on a proper road and 260km of African Massage (according to our driver today!).
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